A friend turned me on to a new place inKharkov,Ukraine. He has an apartment near theUniversytet metro station in the
center. The place where he is living is a Western Style residence that for some
unaccountable reason does not have internet access. This hardship caused him to
search for a suitable spot where he could do some business online as well as
chat with friends. He decided the best choice in the area was the I.T. Café (http://itcafe.ua/) which is right to the left of
the glass exit for the metro. It is directly above the Potato House.
There are a few good benefits of this
eatery. First of all the Wi-Fi has a strong signal. (In a pinch you can access
the internet at the weaker Potato House as well) They rent computers including
the I-Pad for Apple aficionados. (They also have a counter that sells
electronics such as computers and phones.) The food is pretty good and they
have an English menu. While traveling around town I have been known to stop at
McDonalds or Coffee Life (the Starbucks clone) to check e-mail or update my
blog. Both of these are OK but I like the atmosphere at the IT café better and
the fact that smoking is not allowed is a BIG plus for me. The meals are served
ala carte so while they are appetizing and inexpensive, you are not going to
get a meal with a soup/salad starter or even a side dish unless you order those
as well. The drink prices are low also with a Carlsberg draft costing just 15
hyrvnia (under $2). I actually have given English lessons on Skype here but I
was sure not to do that on the nights when they have a band or Tuesday when
they have Salsa lessons.
This place is really catering to the
business market. They have presentation equipment on hand, as well as printing
and scanning services. They even have consultation by an IT specialist
available. If you do plan to visit occasionally then you should sign up for
their discount card. The basic one gives a 3% discount and allows table
reservations plus they will permit you to get some of their other amenities at
a discount or even free.
The last seven weeks have been very
confusing to those that exchange currencies in Ukraine.
On September 23 the National Bank of Ukraine (NBU) enacted new Currency
Exchange Rules. They required that
people who exchange foreign currency must present an ID and the business that
tenders the trade would be obligated to make copies of the paperwork. This has
been bewildering for Ukrainians, foreigners and the banks themselves. This
could also create a massive nightmare for those attending EURO 2012 football
games. Some of the kiosks that exchange money just closed because they didn’t
want to deal with the bureaucracy. The Ukrainians didn’t like the idea of their
personal info floating around while the expats and foreign tourists were S.O.L.
because most of the banks would not exchange any money at all unless the person
showed a Ukrainian Passport.
The official reason for this rule
change was that it was a new tool to fight money laundering and the underground
economy. Supposedly, there is $70 Billion in foreign currency in Ukraine
that is hard to track. However, it seems more likely that they are doing it to
stop people from selling the Hryvnia which causes it to weaken against foreign
currencies. The NBU announced a series of gold investment coins that they hope
people will buy instead of speculating in hard currencies. These come in bars
ranging in size from 1 gram to 1,000 grams.
There were
many complaints from embassy employees about their inability to exchange money.
After some time, the banks did start to allow exchanges by foreigners from hard
currencies into the Hryvnia. And finally the NBU relaxed the rules on October
28 so that an ID must be shown when up to the value of 150,000 Hryvnia is
purchased but a copy of the ID does not have to be made. Of course, this is for
a purchase into Hryvnias. People who are buying foreign currencies must still
leave a copy and foreigners must show a receipt from the original purchase to
exchange the leftover funds back into their currency.
These rule
changes do not affect me too much because I rarely exchange currencies. If I
need some extra cash I just use a bankomat (ATM). The last time I exchanged
some money was during August when I got rid of some extra Euros that I had
acquired. I just handed the money to someone at the exchange window and
received Hryvnia and a simple receipt that had the details of the transaction.
During the
past week I tried to swap some money to see how the process had changed since
my last transaction. (This time it would be some leftover rubles.) I went to a
bank and when I approached the exchange window they sent me back to one of the
tellers. She asked for my passport and the amount of money that I was going to
exchange. She then checked a list that she had on her desk. I have no idea what
was on the list. She also made a phone call but I wasn’t sure if it was for my
transaction or regarding the person who was ahead of me but was now standing to
the side. She gave me 3 copies of a sheet of paper that had the particulars of
the exchange including my name (but not my passport number). She put an
official stamp on each one. I then took these back to the currency exchange
window where my passport was checked again. I received my Hryvnias, a copy of
the stamped transaction details plus a certificate that could be used for the
“exchange of unspent Hryvnias for foreign currency”. One of my friends said he exchanged some
dollars at a kiosk this week and he just handed over dollars for Hryvnia. No
extra paperwork was involved. Seems like this is easier but it would be a big
mistake if you have a larger amount of money remaining at the end of your trip
and were unable to convert it back.
The relaxation of the rules is
temporary. They are set to become stricter after the end of the Euro 2012
games. I guess it is possible that this may reduce the demand for hard
currencies but I think it is a little scary that the rules will be more severe
than most of the other places in the world. I will not even talk about the
current restrictions of 1,000 Hryvnia per person that is a rule that is not really
enforced at border crossings. I personally do not take restrictions on the free
market of currency exchange lightly. Actually
these new rules and regulations are making me think of some of the other events
that have happened in the past around the world.
·The WeimarRepublic in 1922 forced its
citizens to exchange their foreign currencies into German marks. Government
officials actually would search customers at restaurants and other business and
seize currencies that were not turned in. Eventually, Hyperinflation destroyed
the savings and pensions of the entire country.
·The Roosevelt Gold Confiscation of 1933 required
that all privately held gold in the United
States be sold to the government. After this
was completed, the dollar was devalued against the price of gold and the US
made large profits on their seizures.
·During the Argentine Economic Crisis of 1999-02
many people tried to convert their money into dollars and get their money out
of the country. This caused a run on the banks and the government froze all of
the accounts except for minor withdrawals. All dollar denominated accounts were
forcibly converted into pesos at the official rate by the government. The
resulting hyperinflation wiped out the savings of the middle class.
·After the Ukrainian Hyperinflation of the early
1990’s the Hryvnia was set at 1.76 to the dollar. By 2008 it had fallen to 4.8
to the dollar. Then in about three months in late 2008 it fell to 7.9 to the
dollar. At this time anyone who had loans payable in dollars had to pay 65%
more. The Hryvnia since has been pegged at an 8-1 ratio to the dollar. But how
much longer can this last?
The test of English as a foreign language (TOEFL) is a necessity for
applicants of international exchange programs in both US and Canadian
universities and may also be required for some jobs abroad. The current test
consists of four sections: Listening, Reading, Speaking and Writing. The results of the test
have to demonstrate that you’re capable of comprehending information on academic
topics and have tolerable skills of expressing your thoughts in oral and
written forms.
I decided that I needed to get
more organized in my preparation process and attend a decent school for a short
time. I have been poking around for a while trying to find an appropriate one
and there it was: the school that offered a free trial lesson. Let’s call it
“IH”.
So I went there…The very first thing that raised a red flag was when I
noticed that the students didn’t talk much among themselves in English before
class (only about the class payment), neither did they after entering the class
room. But I was only a newcomer, so I thought that it might just be my first
impression that they weren’t really interested in what they were doing.
In the very beginning of the class the teacher for some reason started
giving notes about one girl’s essay that was written at home. He devoted 5
minutes to this issue, while the others’ essays didn’t deserve his attention at
all. Maybe this was the only essay that was turned in?
After the teacher finally decided to give his attention to the whole group,
we were given a whole bunch of papers, among which he picked a vocabulary one for
the next part of the lesson. The teacher really didn’t give us a chance to
explain all the words. But surprisingly for me the students really didn’t seem
eager to explain the meanings of the words either. He felt satisfied, told us
to fill the gaps (blanks) in the text below with those words and…left the
class. As we were reading the text he gave corrections, without discussion
about problems that we could come across trying to find the correct matches.
The second and the most boring part of class was right in the middle.
The teacher put an old cassette in his stereo and…left for more than 30
minutes. That was an old version of the listening comprehension test that used
to be provided in 90s, but doesn’t exist anymore. I expected from him the
discussion of our results, but, again he just read the correct answers. I
forgot for a couple of minutes that we live in the 21st century and could
download as many audio files as we want from the net. I could have easily done
this listening part at home and checked everything by myself.
I really was hoping that the speaking or writing part would shake me up
just a bit and wake me from this prostration. Yes, he gave us an essay topic,
but it was assigned as homework. This was a big mistake. Essays during the test
should be written in 30 minutes without using a dictionary. There is no way;
you would be doing this correctly at home! Instead you will spend a couple of
hours working on your composition until it looked immaculate, but during the
test everything is about timing and concentration, and there is only a slight
chance that your home writing assignments will help you. The speaking part was
reduced to discussing papers that described our strange dreams. We had to talk
to each other while he pretended to be interested in our pronunciation. “No
Russian in class” – he hushed me one time, but he didn’t really listen to what
I was saying in English anyway….We didn’t have to use out thoughts or really
express ourselves. Not unexpectedly, while we were reading these “dream texts”
the teacher was absent from class, this time smoking.
At the end of class I felt pity for all the students in attendance. I
thought they were supposed to hate English so far studying like this since
September. Regarding my question “Is it always that boring?”, addressed to one girl, I got the answer “It can be worse. Today we had a lot of talking
comparing to some previous classes”.
So the role of the teacher in class was very limited (well, he was
absent for 45 minutes so no wonder), the tempo ˗ very slow, the explanations
–weak, the forms of class work were
picked according to what the teacher thought would be the simplest for him, the
materials were old, the methodic was obscure. I wouldn’t say anything if the
results of their studying was perfect, but the group didn’t not seem to make
great progress, or to be really interested in what they were doing. Maybe I got
too spoiled studying at different places, being a lecturer myself and having observed
a lot of good teachers. But I really like the language and I just would hate
classes like this. However, I don’t think that trial
lesson was a complete waste of my time. I would attend this course…for free.
But there is no way I would pay for this.