Odessa with a P: Port, Portal and 2 smoking cannons.

      (This is a response to the previous post by John)

     The fact that I will start a discussion about something that I have never seen before is all John’s fault. I‘m talking about the Eiffel Tower which he compared to the Potyomkin Stairs, which would definitely lose out in terms of height, size and the ability to observe a good view. According to these mentioned parameters, the new title of Eiffel Tower should rather be given to the glass & steel hotel “Odessa” in the center of the sea port: sky-blue, sky-high (both in height and prices).

Sea port, “Odessa” hotel

                                   
     I bet somebody would find it exiting that in front of the building there is a cannon pointed at the entrance like a symbol of perishable life. This is typical for Odessa with its specific sense of humor that is known all over Ukraine.

Seaport, a cannon right in front of the “Odessa” hotel

                The Hotel’s location is very poor though if you’re a tourist without your own yacht or jet because all the beaches are very far away.

Various yachts could be an attraction for unpretentious port visitors like me, who associate them with a “sweet life”

     Even though you’re more interested in downtown activities, every time you want to go to there you’ve got to climb up the much talked-about stairs.

View of the hotel and port from Potyomkin stairs

                           I don’t like the transliteration John suggested, even though Microsoft Word thinks that I’m wrong. It should be pronounced “Potyomkin”, not “PotEmkin”, but you can find it both ways in the information sources.
     What are the stairs of my dreams that are perfect as a tourist-attraction? At first, I would consider it fascinating if they offered a nice panoramic view during observing which causes you to try to catch your breath and have butterflies in your stomach. And secondly, they might give you adrenalin of stones rolling from feet into the precipice, because the stairs are high, old and have been there since, for example, times of the Roman Empire. Furthermore, there is some heroic feeling of getting through obstacles in the face of 1000 steps or so. This all is definitely not about the Potyomkin stairs. They do not seem marvelous at any point of view except for some historical associations, so I don’t know what all the people are making a fuss about.
     Primorsky Boulevard, situated perpendicularly to Potyomkin steps, a place for lazy ice-cream eaters and souvenir sellers during the hottest hours of the day, is more amusing than stairs and represented by mixture of culture artifacts partly mentioned by John. There are monuments of different times and significance, one more cannon, P.D.A. on benches, a pillar which shows the distance to any city you would like to know or rather never wanted to know (this is the best spot for ridiculous photos), remains of an ancient settlement covered with glass cupola what makes it look like a cage of hidden or escaped dangerous animals etc. I especially liked the “Lonely girl” portal (walk on the right if you you’re standing back to stairs), white pillars of which nowadays are disfigured by profound writings.
     According to the legend, the wife of a seaman was waiting looking for him from this hill. And every year they would add one more pillar to the “portal.” Modern inscriptions may explain who the guy she was expecting to come back was:

 Primorsky park. Lonely portal. Poor example, but the funniest things, of course, were written in Russian

   

     The situation of anticipating, the quintessence of all sea port cities’ mood, is also expressed in the statue of a girl with a “baggage” in the port which looks strange with the view of urban scenery behind:

 Seaport: Sailor’s Wife monument

                                               

     As opposed to compromising the romance of the “Lonely girl” portal by political, musical and not very polite discussions written on its pillars, the Mother-in-law bridge, which is next to it, at the right end of boulevard if you stand back to the sea, has somehow turned into a romantic place with a large amount of locks hung there in the symbol of eternal love.

Mother in-law-bridge under the burden of “love” locks

                     Posted by Helen

Odessa, be ready for One Star.

I went to Odessa for the first time this summer with two experienced Odessa visitors who had been to this city about five times each. However, one of them couldn’t even give me an answer to my very first question. I asked: “What is on the beaches of Odessa – sand or pebbles?” Somehow I felt stupid when he said, that he “used to go to the beach only at nights”, so he didn’t pay attention to the makeup of the beach.

Actually, that is not that unpredictable for Ukrainians, because nobody (among the people I know) goes to Odessa to swim in the sea. It has the same climate as Kharkov and the sea is not consistently warm during the entire summer. That’s why people prefer going to South Bank of Crimea with its sub Mediterranean climate and its marvelous nature. The main aim in Odessa for me was to have fun and I succeeded at that task, but since somebody mentioned the hotel Zirka (in the last post), I should talk about it.

If I had a chance to forget something unpleasant about my trip to Odessa it would definitely be this hotel. I’m not a pretentious creature, I’m used to sleeping on rocks in a tent, but when you’ve got a place with “hotel” in its name, you don’t expect that the sink will be a size of an ashtray, and that the space between the ceiling and the floor would be bigger than the area between the walls. The second problem for me was a lack of air circulation. The window couldn’t be opened while the central air conditioning barely worked. I can’t say anything about having a nice view from our window since all I could see was the wall of the next building just 50 centimeters away. If I didn’t know that Ukraine was the biggest country in Europe, I would think we were suffering from a land shortage or overpopulation in our country. Actually, Zirka doesn’t give you enough space for thinking about things, so this idea came to my mind only now.

Of course, if you suffer from the slightest form of claustrophobia, you shouldn’t go there! You might be fortunate not to suffer from paroxysm in the elevator but your luck might run out in the bathroom which is actually quite smaller.

So I guess when they named the hotel “Zirka”, they actually meant not “Star” in singular, but a“1 star” rating for the place. Their website talks about the comfortable rooms but you’d better believe that the name of the place is actually the best representation.

Posted by Helen

Odessa, Z to A, --- the Zirka Hotel

          I have been informed that Zirka (зірка) means “Star” in Ukrainian and Google translation has verified this fact. I may have thought it would be fine to have plans to stay in a Ukrainian Hotel called “Star”? Perhaps I was a bit optimistic. I have been to Odessa a few times and have stayed at a number of unusual locations. The best place that I have crashed at was The Odessa Hotel (http://odessa-hotel.com.ua/en/). It had many amenities and to say it had a pleasant view would be an understatement. It is actually located in the harbor overlooking the Black Sea. The major drawback is that it is located at the bottom of the Potemkin Steps. This means that if you visit the city center you must go up and down these 192 steps! While roaming alone, I have also stayed at a couple of hostels. These are cheap and it is usually effortless to make friends with other people who are staying in the city. However, most of the accommodations are usually bunk beds in a room with 8-12 other people. My current favorite is The Babushka Grand Hostel. I really like the free Wi-Fi and the big bathtub/shower. I need to remember to bring my rubber ducky next time.

On my recent trip to Odessa I thought that a hostel would not be a good choice because I had a traveling companion, (let’s call this person T.C.). A friend (I’ll call him “Mr. M”) that was traveling with us thought that the Zirka Hotel (70 Uspenskaya St) or the Tokyo Star Hotel would be a good place to stay. I followed his suggestion because I thought it would be easier if we all stayed together. I went and booked a room at Zirka by sending them an e-mail (no credit card required) but then my friend reserved a room at Tokyo Star, (Tokyo Zirka?). We had a night train from Kharkiv that was arriving before 9:00 at the Odessa Train Station. I thought we couldn’t check in to the hotel until the afternoon so I set something up that would allow us to take a shower and leave our luggage at another place. I arranged to do this and then planned to meet Mr. M for breakfast before we went to the beach. When we exited the train station, Mr. M tried to figure out where Tokyo Star was located. I was eager to take a shower and suggested that he just take a taxi. The taxi would have cost about 30 Hryvnia (grivna) which is less than $4. He had T.C ask directions and started walking that way. I really didn’t want to carry my luggage to his hotel and then go to the place where I could shower but T.C. was being helpful and I didn’t want to ruin the mood.

When we arrived at Tokyo Star I waited outside while Mr. M checked the place out. I never saw the room but he said it was “like a shoe box”. I presume this lodging might have a “hot sheet” reputation. In any case, he decided not to stay there and he was going to go to Zirka instead. We all started to leave with him heading to the “Star” while we went to take a shower. I never found out if he paid extra to check in early. If he didn’t it would have made my “showering place” unnecessary.

Later in the afternoon, we did check into Zirka ($37 a night) as well. The place seemed agreeable enough; the lobby was rather small (and it was just about the only place the Wi-Fi worked) but the hallways were clean and nicely decorated. It was built in 2007 and had central air. My opinion changed a bit when we saw our room. Mr. M stayed at this hotel in the past so I’m not sure how he could have thought Tokyo Star was a shoebox. Our room was the smallest hotel room that I have ever seen in my life. It made a U.S. Motel Six (http://www.motel6.com/) look like a suite. When the door to the room is open, it practically touched the bed. The double bed took up about two thirds of the room. There was a small refrigerator that occupied most of the remaining space that was outside the arc of the door. The only spot you could stand was in this area reserved for the open door. Two people could not move about at the same time. If you wanted to stir, the other person would have to do a little dance first. We called this the “Zirka Shuffle”.  I’m certain that I have brothers who have walk-in closets that were bigger than this room. The bath room was also undersized. When you step inside, the shower is directly in front of you with the toilet near your right elbow and the sink by your left. I believe that we also had satellite TV. I can’t remember because we didn’t turn it on. There was a free breakfast but it was really just a “packaged meal” that included a juice box, yogurt and some wafer cookies. The hotel did not have a restaurant and it seemed like the Americano Coffee shop was our first stop every day.

In retrospect, Zirka wasn’t so bad. It was very small but you get what you paid for. I think in the future I will try to get the one bedroom at The Babushka Grand Hostel. 

Posted by John